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JACK'S CAMP

"Makgadikgadi? I asked what was out there, and they said 'Nothing - only idiots go there.' I thought fine, that's the place for me." - Jack Bousfield 1989.

The Makgadikgadi. The largest expanse of 'nothingness' on earth, an area the size of Switzerland clearly visible from outer-space, devoid of anything but salt and shimmering horizon. A vast relic of Africa's largest body of water and a hitherto unknown cradle of earliest man's genesis.

Infernal mirages warp reality into twisted parodies during the heat of the dry season and with the coming of the rains, life-giving water seeps into the pans, stimulating an annual pulse of life. The baking soda void is transformed into one of Africa's most fecund ecosystems. Unbelievable numbers of migratory birds flock to the pans and the grasslands swarm with a living mantle of zebra and wildebeest, participants in the second biggest animal migration on the African continent.

Jacks Camp itself - the accommodation, the staff and their informal but rapt attention to life's finer pleasures - is probably the closest a traveller can get to an authentic British safari of yesteryear, an experience that was available only to a privileged few. Accommodation is in large olive green canvas tents strategically placed among the tall Ilala palm trees for privacy.

Step inside and be transported to the 1940's with a high black wrought iron bed dressed in crisp white cotton sheets and feather duvets, and draped with gossamer mosquito netting. The floor is appropriately covered with an antique oriental rug, its rich colours still vibrant. There is a lovely little old fashioned writing desk and chair in the corner, a great place for the intrepid explorer to record their diary entries. On top you will find hand crafted boxes which contain snacks and other "necessary" items. In front of each tent is a wood and canvas collapsible washstand and a gleaming tall copper water pitcher. Hanging from a post is a canvas mess kit complete with mirror.

Private ablution facilities are separate from each tent, a short walk away, in a reed enclosure. Inside the "loo" there is great attention to detail. The flush toilet seat is a dark mahogany, little teak and brass boxes hold tissue paper, and a shower bag is hung from a tree over a wooden mat. Steaming hot water is delivered on request, poured into the canvas bag and hoisted back up into the trees. There is nothing like a shower in the open air to wash away the Kalahari dust and leave you revived and refreshed for your next activity.

The common areas at Jacks are also tented, with polished wood floors and olive green canvas furnishings. There is a sitting room/library/bar area where "Kalahari koolers" are served after the morning activity and where cocktail hour is held in the evening. Dinner is served under a spreading acacia tree in front of camp. The table is splendid - draped in damask with bone handled silver cutlery and floods of lantern and candlelight. The food is a fitting complement to the ambience.

A few miles away, San Camp (sister camp to Jack's) gazes across the vast expanses of the Makgadikgadi Pans. San is a white canvas creation which, when lit by evening candlelight, becomes a vision of gold. The 1940's safari theme and atmosphere is the same as at Jacks, although slightly more "Lawrence of Arabia." The Uncharted Africa Safari Company also operates expertly led mobile Safaris through Botswana's most beautiful, remote, and game-rich areas. These are rare and magical experiences which we heartily recommend to all ambitious souls.

The emphasis at Jack's Camp is on a holistic ecological understanding of the Pans and the surrounding Kalahari Desert. Creative, informal, and intellectual, the Jack's Camp experience is a unique interpretative and exploratory adventure that will leave you with a sense of fulfilment and achievement. In the words of world-renowned chef Jacques Pepin: "This is the proverbial middle of nowhere, nothing but salt and stars, atmosphere and silence, from horizon to horizon. It's a place that shifts your axis forever."

Activities are many and varied. From fascinating nature walks with a bushman tracker, to educational nature drives with your highly qualified guide, paleaontological discussions and star-gazing in the middle of the pans, to quad-biking safaris across the pans. The guides themselves (all of whom are biology or zoology graduates) are a highlight. Described as "part boffin, part adventurer, part Hemmingway and not a little mad", they all share one thing: an almost fanatical love of, and interest in, the unique natural wonder that is the Makgadikgadi.

This is a place of wonderful and unforgettable surprises, and nobody should expect to visit Jack's Camp and return with the same perspective on the world.

Ecotourism angle

Jack's Camp was the first permanent camp to be established in the Kalahari Desert. Before its establishment, as the earlier quote from Jack Bousfield suggests, very little value was placed on the great Makgadikgadi Pans; in fact, very little was even known about them. Following pioneering research, first by Jack and Ralph Bousfield and later by guides at the camp, a series of interesting discoveries subsequently caught the attention of the scientific community, and awareness of and concern for the Pans has increased significantly. As well as generating revenue for Botswana's Department of Wildlife, and creating jobs for local villagers, Jack's Camp has been at the forefront of establishing the ecological and paleaontological value of the Makgadikgadi Pans. In an effort to stop the habitat degradation caused by ill-adapted and highly destructive cattle and goats, Jack's Camp is currently negotiating with surrounding communities and district officials to have these domestic intruders removed from the delicate Kalahari eco-system adjoining the great Pans.

To find out more about Jack's Camp, or to make a reservation, call on

27-11-463-7889 or email us.

LIYATSHWA SAFARIS PORTFOLIO - Makgadikgadi Pans